Sometimes it seems you can do these tasks by yourselves, especially with budgets becoming tighter, but sometimes, its just as important to accurately protect your investments. If you’re looking for professional pool closings, stop looking and schedule your appointment. Located out of Brighton, if you’re in the Howell,  Hartland, Ann Arbor, Flint, Lansing, Detroit or otherwise Southeastern Michigan area, we’ll service you with trustworthy and adept employees. Visit our website at  or call 278-798-4978.

Pietila Pools Services has been serving the Detroit and surrounding areas for the last 40 years. A locally family owned and operated business, we are running four professional, knowledgeable crews who handle swimming pool closings in Oakland, Macomb, Livingston, Ingham, Washtenaw, Wayne and surrounding areas. Each crew has an experienced team leader, with over 30 years individual experience in the business. Rest assured, when you call Pietila Pools out to close your pool the results for the spring will be guaranteed.  Our crews work 7 days a week September-October to handle our closings, making sure the homeowner is satisfied. We service inground, above ground, gunite, vinyl liner, fiberglass, pool and spas. We close pools that have plastic covers with waterbags, automatic pool covers, and safety covers. If you have been considering a safety cover, our crew would be happy to quote that for you as well. Please inquire early, fabrication time is 3-5 weeks in the peak season.

SCHEDULING HOTLINE 248-478-4978

Servicing In-Ground Pools, Vinyl Liner Pools, Gunite Pools, Spas, Waterfalls, it’s critical to make sure you have a professional pool closing to protect your investment. Our team of professional swimming pool closing crews are here to make sure you get the best closing possible, at the best price. Have your pool closed by a team of PROFESSIONALS! This is the best investment you can make for your pool this season. Close your pool anytime from now through December 1st. Schedule early to get your preferred date and time. Schedule your pool closing today! Cost: $350 COD. Schedule ahead to reserve your preferred day and time. Swimming pool Closings include winterization of the equipment, lines, antifreeze in the skimmers, balancing of the pool water, professional grade algecide and the right amount of chlorine to ensure a clean spring pool. There will be a nominal upcharge for spas, waterfalls or intricate plumbing systems. If you have any questions, please ask at the time of scheduling. Preferred days and times are  Limited So Don’t Delay And RESERVE YOUR CLOSING NOW

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COMPREHENSIVE POOL CLOSING CHECKLIST

Our crew will perform a maintenance inspection and equipment check prior to closing. We will alert you to any potential concerns, and close the pool in the best way to ensure for quick and easy spring start up.

1. Before we arrive, Locate all your winterizing supplies.  This should include the cover, the water tubes, the plugs for the skimmers (gizzmos) and return jets and your winterizing chemicals.
2. Our crew will Backwash the filter very well to clean it out.   We will Drain DE filter tanks and leave backwash valve open.  On sand filters, we unplug the filter drain plug and leave off. Typical storage includes putting the  drain plug with other removed items in the pump basket. Make sure multiport valve has no water in it. Please note that it is not recommended to “acid wash” DE filters at the time of the pool closing.  This is best to do in the Spring so that you can immediately run pool water through the system.  It is not good to use muriatic acid on a DE filter and then just rinse it off and put it away.  The acid may degrade the filter parts over the winter.
3. Our crew will disconnect your pump and filter.  Making sure that pump is totally drained out of any water.
4. Our professional crew will drain the heater and make sure there is no water inside. This can corrode the interior of the heater, causing potential leaks and issues in the spring. *We do not recommend covering the equipment for the winter as water can get trapped under plastic causing buildup and freezing over the winter.
5. Our crew will unscrew and loosen any quick disconnect fittings or unions at your pump and filter system.  Remember, the name of the game is “no freeze cracks”.  If the water is all drained out of your pipes and fittings, it cannot freeze and expand and crack.
6. Our team will remove all return jet fittings ( the entire fitting ! )
7. We will Blow out all return jet pipes completely. This is the most important part, and where a do it your-selfer sometimes falls short.
8. The skimmer will be blown out as well as all water drained. The skimmer will be plugged and anti-freeze added to ensure proper winterization.  Water can easily freeze in a skimmer and crack the plastic.  This would be bad !  Also, if you have a slide, an auto vac system or a waterfall, we will drain and blow out those pipes as well. Remember – we do not recommend putting anti-freeze type products in the pipes.  You will not need it if the
9. Our team will blow out main drain line.
10. We will Remove rope and floats from pool and put with the rest of the supplies.
11. We will remove the ladder for winter storage.
12. Our team will add the proper balance of chemicals to the pool. Adjust to normal levels using pH PLUS or MINUS and ALKALINITY PLUS.  pH should be between 7.2 – 7.6 and Alkalinity between 100-150 ppm.  Make sure one of your winterizer chemicals consists of a SHOCK-type product.  You want the chlorine level in the pool to be rather high (over 3.0 for wintertime).
13. Our crew will drain your pool to just below the level of the returns to ensure for proper line blow out. If you have an automatic cover, we can install elbows so the water level doesn’t have to be brought down as low, you want to make sure to maintain the proper water level, especially with an automatic cover.  Realize that the higher their water level is through the winter, the better it is for the pool cover. Pools that are drained down low cause a lot of undue stress on the pool cover thereby shortening its life – as well as exposing the pool liner to the air and causing it to prematurely dry out.
14. Our crew will place the cover on the pool. If there are rips or tears in the cover we will recommend that you have a new cover installed. It makes no sense to put a faulty cover on a clean pool, only to create new problems in the spring!  Remember, if your cover was declared legally dead a few years ago then patching probably is not the right thing to do !  It is probably time to get a new cover.
15. Our crew will install water tubes on the pool if you use a plastic cover, or secure the springs and test for efficiency with a safety cover. Once the closing is complete, you can put your items into the garage or basement for winter storage and we’ll see you in the spring!SCHEDULING HOTLINE: 248-478-4978
    

When replastering a pool, you need to understand how groundwater works.  After draining the swimming pool, be sure to punch holes in the bottom of the pool, to relieve the hydrostatic pressure. If this step is skipped, the shell may float out of the ground.

Now, get to work!

The good news is that the majority of pool chemicals are not considered harmful.  Pool chemicals such as chlorine and bromine are naturally occurring, hence they can be considered somewhat environmentally friendly.  Plus, they control the spread of bacteria in a swimming environment and keep our most valuable resource (people) safe.

When used in correct amounts and on a regular basis, pool owners would use smaller amounts of chemicals than when falling behind on their pool water maintenance.  When too little chemical is used, get ready for dangerous water conditions that would require playing catch up, resulting in the addition of greater amounts of chemicals than would be needed to begin with.  Therefore, dealers should encourage pool owners to follow a regular maintenance schedule.  Go green!

We always check alkalinity and adjust that first, and then deal with the ph. The muratic acid (highly caustic, don’t splash on you or the pool surface, make sure to add directly to the water) will adjust both of these. Don’t be surprised if you see the alkalinity drop and then the ph change oddly. It happens.

When adding chemicals do ½ of the recommended change, it’s easier to add more than to redo something that you did that made significant changes. If you add ½ gal of muratic acid and wait a couple hours, then you could use test strips to see if the level has lowered itself, and add some more. The ph being high will affect swimmer comfort, and some may experience itchy skin etc. if the level remains that high.

Salt: On an chlorine generator salt system if your light is going between green/yellow I would add one more bag of salt. If it continues to fluctuate, it might need to be cleaned, which would mean taking the salt cell itself out of the plumbing and running a solution of muratic acid and water through it while it’s in a bucket. Add a bag and see if this continues, then the cleaning might be in order.

Party: If you are going to have a large number of swimmers in the water, it’s a good idea to shock it (turn cl2 production up to 100%) the day before and then the day after the party.